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CHECK OUT OUR CARS NEW !! Big 5 Gen IV Big5 Gen V Hustler 4 Hustler FUNCO OWNERS FORUM |
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This is a collection of helpful hints if you are assembling a Funco car yourself from a Kit. Powder Coating Although powder coating is the best finish for the frame, more durable than most alternatives, it can also cause problems for DIY assembly it you're not aware of a few things. Make sure that ALL chrome items are fully covered so they don't get sandblasted and powder coated. Don't let the powder coat company do this, as the littlest mistake cannot be fixed later. DO THIS YOURSELF so you know it's done right. The areas I'm talking about are the chrome grab handles, or any other chrome items that are welded onto the frame. All holes in Funco frames are precision drilled to fit the mating bolts in contained in the Funco "Nut and Bolt" kit. The bolts fit the holes with close tolerances, so it's advisable to fill these holes with corks so they don't get powder coat material inside them. If the inside of these holes are accidentally powder coated, most bolts won't fit. In this case you'll find yourself drilling out all the holes to remove the powder coat. This isn't a big deal, just a hassle if you don't cork off the holes. Threads are a key concern when powder coating. Make sure to put bolts in the treaded holes, such as the shifter nuts, or the gas tank fittings. Cleaning up threads is a little more hassle than cleaning up unthreaded holes, especially the 3/8" pipe threads in the gas tank. A 3/8" pipe thread tap will cost you a few bucks, a tool that most of us don't have laying around the garage. Do not tap the 10-32 holes for the side panels until AFTER the frame is power coated. When tapping these holes, try using a Makita drill on slow speed. Use lots of cutting oil and clean the tap threads of metal shaving after tapping each hole, then dip the tap into cutting oil to start the next hole. If you're careful not to break the tap, you can tap all the holes in less than 30 minutes. Sometime you run across holes to be careful on. There are actually 2 tubes you will be tapping through, twice the metal as normal, you'll know it when you feel it. Just take it easy on these one and you'll be OK. If you powder coat the radiator tubing pipes or thermostat housing, make sure you don't powder coat any surface that HOT radiator fluid will touch. Specifically, don't allow powder coating inside the tubes or thermostat housing. WARNING.... hot radiator fluid at 200F can peal off the powder coating in sheets on the inside of the plumbing and clog your radiator passages. The heat won't harm the powder coating on the outside, it will only harm and detach powder coating where the hot fluid makes physical contact if accidentally applied in this inside area. So, simply make sure no powder coating is applied inside the radiator tubes, or thermostat housing. In many cases these items are chromed anyway, so it won't matter. But if you plan on powder coating or painting them, keep this in mind. Wire routing Funco frames are pre-drilled to route wires through the frame to the headlights, tail-lights, and whip antenna. This takes patience and a little finness to do. The best way to pull your wires through the frame tubes is by using 30 gauge welding wire as your "fish line". Cut off about 8' of #30 welding wire, then bend a short 1/8" hook on the end. The hook needs to be small enough to easily fit through the holes in the frame, so make the hook a sharp bend so it's like a sharp "V" at the end. This is your fish line. Make another retrieval wire about 10" long, and bend into a "L" shape so you have about 4" L arm. The "L" shape is a handle to precisely twist the retrieval wire when needed. On the 6" long end of the "L" put another small 1/8" V hook. OK, you're ready to start fishing. Push the fish line through the tube, backwards from where you want to string the wire to. When you see the end of the welding wire, use the L shaped retrieval wire to pull the fish line out of the tube, using the "V" hook to snag the other V hook, and pull it out of the tube. This can take a little practice, but after a few successes you'll get the hang of it. When you get the fish line out of the tube just attach your electrical wire to the V hook and pull it through the tube. Attaching the wire to the V hook can be done in many ways. I prefer stripping about 1" of insulation off the electrical wire and cut off most of the copper wire strands back to the insulation, leaving only about 2 strands. I take those 2 strands and loop them over the V hook, then twist the leaders back around the copper electrical wire. Then squeeze the V hook so it's completely closed, clamping the copper wires so they can't slip off while pulling through the tube. When pulling the wire through the frame, be gentle, pushing the electrical wire into the frame at one end while pulling from the other end with the fish line. Extra care should be taken to get the electrical wire out the exit hole where you can lose the wire if pulling too hard. Be patient. Brake Lines Routing brake lines can be a time consuming job, deciding where to run them and what materials to use. For the best firmness in brake pedal feel the object is to use as much hard-line as possible, using as little braided line as possible. To get a good idea on this simply look at an assembled factory Funco car. You can go cheaper and use less braided line, replacing it with with standard 1/8" hard brake line, or for a best look you can opt for stainless hard-lines, which are little more difficult to bend. Stainless will polish up to look like chrome, but that's tedious work. If you're building a car with over 200HP (who doesn't?) we highly recommend including front brakes into your build plan. 4 and 5 seat cars naturally weigh more, and with more weight it takes more braking power to stop in a reasonable distance. For your safety, invest in front brakes, you'll be glad you did. When installing those brakes don't forget to put in a 2lb preloading valve in the system, typically mounted on the brake master cylinder. This keeps a little pressure on the brake lines so the brake pads don't creep out while driving, sometimes clicking if the rotor get slightly out of true. The primary purpose is to minimize the pedal throw versus without the preload valve. For the back brakes lines you'll need to transition from hard line to hoses, usually braided hoses. This is typically done behind the gas tank using a special brass German hydraulic adapter, one for each rear wheel. Funco sells those adapters for ~$10/ea. One of them is a T which provides a place to install a brake light switch in the hydraulic system. These brass adapters are mounted on floorboard tabs using a 1" standoff, each with a 1/4 X 2" bolt, which raises the brass adapters to a good height that allows the hoses to attach and run smoothly down each rear swing arm. HOSES: Get ready to spend some money. Braided hoses are expensive. Here's a list of hoses you may need to buy (in water cooled applications): 1. Hoses for each of the 4 brakes (assuming you have front brakes too). 2. Power steering hose from the power steering pump on the engine to the front rack and pinion assembly, and back to the reservoir tank. These two hoses total about 33 to 35' of hose (for Subaru engines) and need 90 degree elbows on one end. These 90 degree elbows are needed for the rack and pinion fitting, to allow easy routing through the frame. It's important to buy the stainless braided line that's 1/2" OD diameter so the hoses will fit easily between the frame tube and the floorboard, near the master cylinder mount. This little tunnel makes for a clean installation versus routing the hoses over the top of the frame member. If your hose dealer tries to sell you the 5/8" diameter hoses, they will work, but they won't fit under the frame tube near the pedals, so beware of this. Attached on end of the 33' hose to the INPUT fitting on the rack and pinion assembly and run the other end to the output side of the pump. Cut the hose to the right length and install the appropriate fitting for your power steering pump, using the correction angle that makes the most sense in your application. Cut the braided hose with enough length so you're not too short, give yourself an extra couple of inches. To cut the braided hose, wrap it with masking tape where you need the cut. Use a Dremel tool using a small cut off blade, cutting the hose carefully at 90 degrees so half the tape is left on each hose when cut off. The masking tape prevents the braid from fraying, allowing you to put the fitting on the hose. After cutting the hose to length, install the other hose to the rack outlet side and run it to the reservoir side inlet. You'll have to cut the hose to the appropriate length again, then install the appropriate fitting on the end. 3. The large power steering "SUPPLY" hose that goes from the bottom of the power steering reservoir to the power steering pump on the engine. This is a big OD hose and you'll need to plan this one carefully to match the AN fitting on the reservoir and the power steering pump. This large OD feed hose doesn't bend to sharp, so plan carefully. They're usually 12-18" long on a Subaru, depending on your routing. It's best to position the reservoir high enough so the bottom feed connection is higher than the pump inlet so the fluid doesn't run uphill. 4. Turbo oil supply hose. This is a smaller diameter hose that runs from a pressurize oil source on your engine to your turbo charger. On a Subaru engine this is fed from where the oil pressure sending unit goes on a stock engine, near the alternator. 5. Turbo oil return hose. This is a larger diameter hose that runs from the turbo back to the oil pan. The oil pan is usually modified to have a #10 "AN" fitting welded on to match the hose fitting size coming from the turbo. 6. Fuel line. On fuel injected motors it's wise to use high pressure braided fuel lines from the fuel pump to the fuel rails. You can opt to use clamp on rubber hose before the fuel pump, but after the fuel pump on the high pressure side, go with braided lines for safety purposes. 7. Fuel return hose. On fuel injected motors you'll have a fuel pressure regulator that returns fuel to the gas tank. It's advisable to use a braided fuel line for this too. 8. Fuel rail feeders. On most motors (V6 or boxer 4 Subaru) you will have 2 fuel rails, one for each bank of cylinders. These two banks will need to be tied together somehow with a hose to supply fuel to each side. Although low budget applications can uses special high pressure fuel lines that clamp onto barbs, it's advisable to use a braided line for this purpose. 9. Breather hoses. Braided breather hoses are solely for looks. You can use standard rubber hose for this purpose and save $100, or "go for show" and buck up with braided lines. If you pop for the braided lines, make sure you modify the engine (if needed) with an A-N fitting of the proper size before you install the motor, preferably before the motor is assemble if it's a Subaru. On a 2.5L Subaru block it will need to be machined and tapped for the fitting. 10. Radiator overflow reservoir. There are 2 hoses in this area. One hose runs from the radiator top to the burp tank, or overflow tank. This attaches to the side of the burp tank. The other hose runs from the bottom of the burp tank to the thermostat housing (on Subaru motors) where the heater hose return usually attaches on a stock car. On many Subaru motors this thermostat attachment is a nipple for a clamped hose. This nipple can be sawed off, then tapped to install an "AN" fitting for a braided hose connection. When all is done, you fill up the radiator by filling the burp tank, little by little. PLEASE NOTE, you need to drill a hole in the thermostat about 3/16" diameter before installing the thermostat cover. This helps speed up the filling process, and doesn't affect the regulation of the thermostat much. Many folks don't even run a thermostat in their Subaru motor. If this is what you want to do, you'll need a special LARGE washer to hold the gasket in place for the thermostat housing, available at Outfront Motorsports. Relays for Water Cooled Engines All water cooled engines will have relays to turn the radiator fans on and off. These are typically controlled by an engine management system (computer) that get data from the heat sensors on the engine. In addition, all fuel injected motors will have an electric fuel pump, also controlled by a computer and relay. As you know relays are mechanical devices, generally reliable, but can be troublesome with lots of sand and dust floating around. Some relays have a vent hole (Bosche & others) and will eventually allow enough sand inside to disable the relay from making contact properly. The result can be very expensive, such as an overheated engine, ruined radiator from overheating, or a car that suddenly quits running from no fuel pressure. To minimize risk you'll need to do some extra work. To prevent relays from failing, use epoxy glue or silicon seal to seal the vent holes and perimeter edges of the relay housing to prevent dust from getting inside the relay cube.
Below is how you can seal the relay with black silicon seal glue.
Subaru Alternator Recall Alternators with RED LABELS, P/N 23700AA211 should not be used in your sandrail application, unless you like to gamble. This particular alternator has been recalled by Subaru due to electronic regulator failure resulting in extremely high output voltages of 29VDC, which will fry almost everything electrical. We're talking computer, gauges, all lights (if on), and VHF radios or intercoms if you have those installed. Other alternators with Blue labels are OK. The part number will be printed right on the LABEL. If you don't have a label on your alternator.... don't take the risk, exchange it. If you happen to encounter one of these alternators, take it to Pep Boys, Auto Zone, Napa, or any other auto parts store and buy a matching rebuilt unit. Connector styles vary from one year to another so you'll need to match the style. It's important to make sure the mating female connector in your harness is an exact mate. Vinyl Backing on Side Panels Vinyl backing adds a custom look to the inside of your car and reduces rattles and other noises. But applying vinyl to your custom painted panels can be risky. We want to give you a few tips that may help. There are several grades of vinyl backing. The best kind is an automotive grade that has a fuzzy backing, and it's more pliable. Cheaper grades have more of a cloth threaded backing and is a little stiffer, less pliable. It takes 10ft of vinyl (60 inches wide) to cover the back of a set of 6 BIG 5 side panels. But make sure you trace the cuts for all panels before you start cutting. It's kinda like putting a puzzle together to fit all the panels in the 9ft of material. If you want to put a backing on the back deck you'll need to buy an extra linear foot (total of 11ft). The first step you may want to do is mask off 1/4" on the inside edge of the panels with masking tape. This masking prevents spray glue from getting on the panel edges. This tape will be removed later. It's best to glue the vinyl so it doesn't go all the way to the edge of the panel, leaving 1/4" of space. This is so you won't see the bare edges of the vinyl after it's installed on the car. When the panel is installed, chassis tubes hide the vinyl edges for a clean look. But some areas you'll likely want the vinyl to go to the edge. This is in the area toward the front of the car where the panel edges DO NOT mate to a chassis tube, and near the front seats. So keep this in mind when putting on the masking tape. In this area you'll want to have about 1/16" of tape so the vinyl comes closer to the edge, very close. The 1/4" masking tape edge assists you then you cut off the excess vinyl in the final step. You will eventually cut back the vinyl to be 1/4" away from the edge, and 1/16" of an inch in those areas you want the vinyl to go to the edge. When tracing the shape of the panels onto the vinyl we recommend making all the vinyl pieces 1" larger around the perimeter. Just do it freehand, it doesn't have to be exact because you're going to cut of this excess after it's glued on. This extra vinyl helps when you apply the vinyl with contact glue, allowing you allowances to be off center a little. With the vinyl an inch bigger around the edges you don't have to be so exact when applying to the panel. And believe me, once you make contact with the contact glue it won't come off, it's a one shot try. You really need this extra vinyl to insure you don't miss covering any areas because you're slightly off center. Before you spray on the contact cement it's helpful to put some marks on the vinyl where the holes will eventually be cut for the screws. Do this with a felt marker on the vinyl side (not the fuzzy side) so you can see them as you install the fabric, allowing easier alignment of the holes. Even though you it will be impossible to match up these holes exactly, the markings can assist to line up the vinyl to with the panel when installing after you apply the glue. Buy 3m's High Strength 90 spray adhesive. You'll need 2 cans, which cost about $13/can at Home Depot. The adhesive comes in a 24oz spray can that has a special nozzle that allows you to adjust the spray pattern. Be aware that the nozzle cannot be reused the next day, so be prepared to do the whole job in one day. Make sure the panel is clean and smooth. Test the nozzle patterns and choose the widest spray pattern possible before getting started. Apply the contact adhesive as even as possible to the entire back of the vinyl and to the panel with masking tape in place. After you apply the glue to the vinyl and panel, let both dry a few minutes to become super tacky BEFORE you apply the vinyl to panel. After it becomes tacky, you're ready to stick it on, do not remove the masking tape yet. BE CAREFUL when you apply the vinyl, it must be centered as best a possible. It's best to make contact with the center of the panel first and work your way out to prevent bubbles. Applying the vinyl fabric while both surfaces super tacky with glue can be very tricky, but much easier if you have a buddy to help. Remember, you get one shot at this. It's best to have one person at each end holding the material. Let the material bow down in the center, making contact with the center of the panel using the hole markings for alignment, then work your way to each end. Both people should eyeball the vinyl hole marks with the panel holes to help each other from all angles to center the vinyl as you start applying fabric. If applied properly you will have extra vinyl hanging over all edges. If you accomplish that, you've done good! It's not that hard, really. It just takes patience. After you apply the vinyl, make sure all areas are rubbed on good to remove all bubbles. Wait overnight for the glue to dry on all panels. Then simply cut off the excess vinyl with an Exacto knife, about 1/4" from the edge. As you cut off the vinyl you will also pull of the masking tape with it, leaving a clean painted surface on the inside of the panel around the perimeter, an edge 1/4" wide. WARNING, not all edges will look good with 1/4' removed. Most edges cannot be seen from the inside of the car, which are the areas you need to cut back 1/4" from the edge. But some of the panel edges DO SHOW from the inside. These areas ARE THE EXCEPTION to the 1/4" rule and should have vinyl go closer to the edge, about 1/16". CAREFULLY plan those areas that will look better from the inside before you start cutting!! These areas are the very front of the front panel, and corner curves that are seen from the inside of the car (near the left side of the left front seat, and the right side of the right front seat). Hustler models will be different, but just remember, if a section of the edge of the panel isn't backed up a chassis tube when installed on the car, the edge will look better with vinyl closer to the edge, 1/16". After you get all the bubbles out to your satisfaction, and the excess material cut off with the exacto, you'll notice your holes for screws, or Dzus fittings need to be cut out. That's the final steps before installing on the car. For the first timer this can be a challenge, but doable. Remove any vinyl felt markings with lacquer thinner. Applying vinyl takes some skill. Experience helps too. If you're not comfortable doing this work Funco can do it for you.
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